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The blade supplied good for framing application. Disappointed the saw off approx. The saw delivered completely setup (no assembly required). Portability and weight OK. 3/16 inch (straight cut) instruction book was good explaining how to correct. The wrench supplied with saw very poor quality,end rounded off. I will work with what I have, if had to do again, I would purchase 10 inch slider, has best selection and availability of replacement blades.
Now if I could only get him to finish a project I'd be all set. I bought this miter saw for my husband and he absolutely loves it. He uses it all the time. Too bad they don't make a saw with auto pilot. lol
It's accurate for sliding miter saw, but not dead on. I also don't understand why it does not have symmetrical fence on both sides. The blades are expensive for the size. If you do flooring work, this is your best friend.
It stays squire for a long time about once a year our lace in re square the saw it is a fast saw to re-square. I've had this saw when it fist come out six years ago, it is light compact saw with big fiches. With remolding homes for a living is saw is the best for me is cut wide board, crown, casings,and siding. It any git out squire because of traveling in me truck or someone las use it. No problem with this saw.
I was unable to have any degree of success with a small square against the blade. The problem for me was that when the guard engages the wood it creates some resistance that must be overcome when pushing the powerhead all the way home. I don't see anything better on the market.If anyone has had similar experiences/issues with the alignment of this saw or the Dewalt blade problem please drop a comment.Update: The blade mark was caused by operator error: i.e., not understanding that the saw powerhead must be returned home very gently and not banged at all. I am going to switch back to the Freud Industrial blade and see if I have this issue. The only way I was able to align the machine to my standards was through trial and error by using a large square (known to be good) on the kerf of a 12 inch cut.
If I bring the blade down in front of the wood and then push it though (like you are supposed to on this type of saw) and then leave the saw head down until the blade comes to a stop (again, like you are supposed to) the Dewalt blade leaves a bad blade mark on the cut. I have a feeling it is the blade because I don't recall this before. I have the Freud Industrial 48 tooth with the necessary negative hook and the Dewalt 60 tooth blades. A one-of-a-kind Dewalt. Neither of these options is desireable and 2) is not safe. A very difficult and time-consuming process. I found it really needs to be eased through the very last part of the cut. BTW, my saw was slightly off on the miter out of the box and these saws need to be set up exactly perfect because incedibly small errors in miter/fence perpendicularity will show up as large errors when the saw is slid out to make a 12" cut.
The Freud is a full kerf blade and this saw can handle it just fine. The only way I can alleviate this blade mark is to either 1) shut the motor off just before the end of the stroke (kinda like you should with a Skil saw) or 2) to immediately lift the head up at the end of the cut while the blade is still spinning. I measured the runout of the Freud Industrial and arbor combination and it was less than.002 - a remarkable number, essentially perfect. The blade is simply not large enough to get an accurate reading (it always looks to be square to the fence at O degrees, even when the kerf says otherwise) and the teeth interfere with the square unless you do the set up with the 30 tooth blade that comes with the saw.This saw is one amazing machine once dialed in but like all saws it must be dialed in. They are fast out and they work is about the most that can be said in their favor.
To the last reviewer: Would you state the brand of the 80 tooth blade you used. Nothing is square out of the box. The Freud Diablo 60 tooth and the Dewalt 60 tooth each had unacceptable runout. I question how long this stand will hold up to use but so far so good. These portable saws do not have the stability of mass in their favor and the flimsy stands don't help. The stand is hard to put together for sure (close to impossible given that some of the parts don't really fit) and a little flimsy (not the world's most stable platform but adequate) but other than that it is quite good.
It has a very high quality of contemporary Italian construction (I have no idea why Dewalt makes this one saw in Italy, but get it while you can), all the capacity needed for 99 percent of the jobs out there (who needs to cut 4X4's with a miter saw - you learn to lay things flat - you don't need a huge 12 inch monstrosity with a slider as it is the slider that provides the great capacity) it is light, and it is powerful. I had to bump the adjustment a fraction of an inch at a time until I got the kerf exactly perpendicular to the fence. I am currently investigating potential problems with the Dewalt blade. It won't win any awards for quality of construction but it is fast to set up, it lets you move the saw around easily and has good capacity although the extensions are the weak link.
That sounds like too many teeth to get on a 8.5 inch blade but who knows. Once the resistance is overcome you need to back off with your force or you will bang the powerhead into the end stop. At least it can be done and it should hold this for a long time. The saw needed adjustment on both bevel and miter settings. Interestingly, if you use the saw as a lefty there were no problems. I have never seen such a blade. For me, I was probably overdoing it just enough to deflect the powerhead a fraction of an inch, enough to create a blade mark.
The solution is to be very careful (gentle is the best way to put it) when bringing the powerhead to the home position. Blade changes are a snap - really, really easy with the provided tool.I use it with the Rigid MSUV stand. If you need to chop up huge crown and you want to nest it I would just get a non-slider 12 inch.Oh, the bag picks up better than 50 percent of the sawdust is my guess. Way better than nothing. The blade mark is made when the blade coasts down or is electric braked down at the end of the cut.
I don't care whose saw it is. I love its adjustability. I wouldn't use anything else. I found the best way to do it was with plastic drafting triangles. I believe the thicker blade is the only way to go.
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